Savage Arms
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Savage Arms
McQueen's talent and understanding of the women's body at "Savage Beauty" retrospective
Masculine vs. Feminine. Past vs. Future. Dark vs. Light. The extremes straddled by fashion designer Alexander McQueen in his work, muse and, apparently, in his life, fit together like a jigsaw puzzle in a recent museum display called "Savage Beauty."
The survey of distinctions in the exhibit at the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute shows McQueen, the artist and academic, as he was celebrated during his career — and even after his suicide at age 40 in February of 2010.
McQueen was every time drawn to a contest, particularly when he could question normal conventions of fashion and beauty, Andrew Bolton, exhibit curator, says.
Bolton quoted a Shakespeare passage that McQueen had tattooed on his arm as a starting point for the show: "Love looks not with the eyes, but with the mind."
At Monday's press preview, Bolton explicated that in "A Midsummer Night's Dream," that phrase is said by Helena, someone who believed that love could change something bizarre into something magnificent.
Stella McCartney, a close associate of McQueen's, and Sarah Burton, his longtime deputy and designer of the present McQueen line, attended the opening, both saying that they were there to honor him and his contribution to their industry. Many more of the world's top designers, models and film celebrities were expected to pay alike honour Monday night at a gala celebrating the exhibition.
One featured unit could rouse comparison to the Duchess of Cambridge's gown, although this was a lavender lace top with black cashmere-and-fleece trousers. The structure of the bodice, with strong shoulders, a nipped waist and just a hint of sexiness in a narrow V-neck, was very similar to the shape of the gown.
Better examples of McQueen's exciting and inventive flair, nonetheless, are the show's two opening gowns, an outfit made of red and black ostrich feathers with tiers of glass medical slides painted red to mimic blood, and another dress made of razor-clam shells stripped and varnished. Both were from the Voss line of 2001.
McQueen's runway exhibits were every time highlights of the fashion agenda; he always pushed the catwalk to the border and found a way to surprise, and sometimes shock, the normally exhausted fashion crowd. A model's movements were restricted by a metal device like a doll for the La Poupee collection in `97; robot arms painted Shalom Harlow in graffiti in 1999; and a huge mirror uncomfortably tracked the movements of editors, stylists and retailers in the audience of his Voss collection of 2001. All are incorporated into the exhibition in video displays.
Kate Moss, in a striking, frothy, cream-colored gown, was beamed onto the runway as a hologram in `06 in the Widows of Culloden collection, and "Savage Beauty" recreates a Tinkerbell-size version of that — with the real gown displayed nearby.
Also, there are several instances of his signature tartan plaid, intolerable heels and his famous low-slung "bumster" silhouette, which Bolton said during a walkthrough last week emphasized McQueen's skill and comprehension of the women's body.
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